Beast Restaurant - Portland, Oregon

The Beast

Chef: Naomi Pomeroy -- Food and Wine Best New Chefs 2009

On a trip this fall to Portland, Or. Doris and I had the pleasure to dine at Beast. It was a pleasure and a surprise. All we knew before going was it was highly recommended by the wine tasting host at the Ponzi Winery in Willamette Valley. He raved about the food and said there were two seatings a night.

Surprise one was that we got a reservation for the 6:00pm seating! I was not wild about the 8:45 seating.

Surprise two was that the Chef was a 2009 Food and Wine Best New Chef. This had me wondering about a price surprise since it was a fixed menu - "substitutions politely declined". When I got the bill at the end of the evening I was pleasantly surprised. (Dinner $52 and optional wine pairing $35)

Surprise three was the small space, with only two communal tables and the kitchen located in the same room. Both turned out to be great fun. We were seated at the smaller of the two tables with a nice couple from the Portland area who gave us some travel tips which came in handy later on our trip. We had an excellent view of the small, small kitchen and enjoyed watching Naomi, and her staff prepare and serve our six course dinner (seven if you count the grape fruit sorbet).

MENU

SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 12 , 2009

END OF SUMMER GAZPACHO SHAVED CHORIZO & FICOIDE GLACIALE

DOMAINE.DES TERRASSES GAILLAC BLANC-2007

CHARCUTERIE PLATE:

FOIE-GRAS BON-BON, SAUTERNES GELEE

STEAK TARTARE & QUAIL EGG TOAST

CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE, PICKLED SHALLOT

PORK, PORK LIVER & SOUR CHERRY PATE

NITTNAUS HEIDEBODEN PINOT BLANC-2007

PAUPIETTES DE VEAU STUFFED VEAL ROLLS WITH TAILS & TROTTERS PORK

SUMMER CHANTERELLES & SAUTEED GREENS

SIMON BIZE SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNES LES BURGEOTS-2005

FRISEE AUX LARDONS POACHED EGG & SOFT CROUTONS

COPAIN ROSE TOUS ENSEMBLE-2008

-SELECTION OF STEVE'S CHEESE-

ANISE & FLEUR DE SEL SHORTBREAD

BITTERSWEET FARMS HONEY MARS-VENUS GRAPES & CANDIED HAZELNUTS

KARL SMUHLE GEIBEN RIESLING SPATLESE NIES'CHEN-2005

BROWN BUTTER CREPE

HOUSE CHOCOLATE & HAZELNUT SPREAD

VANILLA ICE-CREAM

QUINTA DO PERLADA 10 YR TAWNY PORT

SUBSTITUTIONS POLITELY DECLINED

Menu comments: The Gazpacho was very nice. The big hits on the Charcuterie plate was the Foie-Gras Bon-Bon and the Steak Tartare & Quail Egg Toast although the later was a little difficult to eat with having quail egg yoke running down you chin. I retreated and used a fork and knife rather than picking up the whole thing and popping it in my mouth. The Paupiettes De Veau (Veal meat loaf wrapped in artisan bacon) was cooked to perfection and the sauce made from the greens brasing liquid made the dish more hearty than anticipated. The Frisee salad was a welcome beak from the rich veal dish. The cheese pate was also nice but I was getting full. The last course was almost as much fun to watch Naoemi prepare as it was to eat. The crapes were wonderful and the homemade Nutella was a real treat.

The bottom line is if travels take you to Portland and you are open to eating what is put in front of you you will love the Beast Restaurant. The menu changes frequently our was billed as a celebration of what Naomi had eaten in France earlier this summer.